After a disastrous 24 hours elsewhere on Crete, after which we walked out of the villa we had booked, we luckily made contact with the delightful Antonios Hatzidakis, who immediately came to our rescue. He bent over backwards to help us, allowing us to stay in Villa Aretheusa while Villa Agni was made ready for us, and going well out of his way to make sure that all our needs were met. I cannot speak too highly of his helpfulness, throughout our stay in Crete.

Villa Agni is very special. It is located about 20 minutes back from the coast, in the high and unspoilt village of Kastri, about half way up the Mt Ida range. Although it takes about 15 mins on distinctly rural roads to reach a taverna or supermarket, this minor disadvantage is easily outweighed by the many advantages of quietness, privacy and seeing the real Crete. And of course Kastri is much nearer some of the inland attractions, such as the Amari Valley and Moni Arkhadiou, and the scenic inland routes with their breathtaking views. A car is essential.

An architect, Mr Hatzidakis has turned his characterful family home into a superbly well appointed villa, that was spotlessly clean and tidy. The upper part of the house (with kitchen, dining room, sitting room, one bedroom with shower/loo and outside dining area) is adjoining but physically separate from the lower part, which has the remaining bedrooms, shower etc. A few outside steps, within the villa's fenced and gated grounds, join the two. The large swimming pool is very cleverly built out from the side of a slope, with nothing beneath it but olive trees and grazing sheep and goats. Trees are planted so that it is not overlooked. Above the swimming pool is another, arboured and private, dining area which shares the poolside's lovely view towards hills.

We loved Villa Agni. We happened to recognise one of the previous guests in the book as a former UK ambassador to Greece, and it says much that he chose this quiet, rural but luxurious villa. For those who are prepared to be away from the fleshspots (but within 20 mins of good tavernas etc) we recommend it unreservedly.